Spring 2019 Fashion Report

A frock in the flagship white-and-cornflower blue of a marinière stepped onto the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2019 couture runway. The blouse stood out amidst a cool light reminiscent of French lavender fields in an Impressionist painting or the wild mountain blueberries, les myrtilles, that decorate the tarts and sorbets of Alps in the summer. It was a subtle, fleeting moment. But it set the backdrop — a little classy, a little nostalgic, and a little edgy — for the rest of the show.

Dior similarly paid tribute to its sartorial history with a modern twist of France. Trimmed suits melted into lavish skirts in signature navy. Every model wore a gilded cap that nodded to Coco Chanel’s breakthrough swimwear of 1920. And, of course, there was the elusive element that made it all the more appropriate: that je ne sais quoi of confident femininity inherent in the philosophies of all the fabulous Parisian outfits and women.

Sporting this trend on the red carpet, Alexa Chung wore a tiered Erdem gown whose whisperings of fleur-de-lis felt lavish in a slightly Marie Antoinette way. And Olivia Wilde wore a lipstick red Dundas dress that married lingerie with the peasant blouse, a revolutionary take on French flair.

To translate this trend onto the dance floor, look for dresses with a hint of structure, either through piping along the bodice or a faux tuxedo along the neckline. Alternatively, go for a monochrome dress in classic navy, white, or black. Streamlined and elegant, this timeless trend suits all.

Few trends captivate the imaginations of wearers, designers, and artists like the vast sources of inspiration found under the sea. In color alone, the trend yields rich opportunity to experiment with corals, lagoons, aquamarines, and pearly hues. In texture, frothy rosebuds of fabric float like sea-foam and unfurl like clam shells. And delicate, airy layers of chiffon follow the wearer down the dance floor (or pavement or runway) like waves in the wind. But this trend resists the label of a cliché. Rather, iridescent scales and sculptural elements offer a more subtle, nuanced argument for a contemporary, refreshing take on a colloquial standby.

Zuhair Murad took this trend to new depths in the design house’s Spring/Summer 2019 couture collection: A looming, slippery, petroleum gown interrupted the happier, dreamier blues. One gold number reminded the viewer of cracked bottles or sunken ships. And on a lighter note, a surprising, lobster red dress reflected light like a swish of a fish tail.

Eva Green took this trend for a spin when she wore an Iris van Herpen gown whose structural, fanciful silhouette mimicked coral rising from the sands. Similarly, Kiki Layne’s regal Chloé gown featured a neckline of pebbles that looked as if they were plucked straight from the beaches, a welcome wink of the natural amidst a sea of white fabric.

Make a splash with this trend by wearing a shade of pink like salmon or Pantone’s color of the year, Living Coral. Pair a vibrant shirt with a blazer and jeans or, for the ballroom, go for a more lavish monochrome aegan sequined gown.

With the restraint of a pastel and the glamour of a metal, honey is a calming yet glamorous choice for spring. Couture designs from Elie Saab demonstrated the trend’s wide range by pairing a drippy gold with a sparkling teal or sugary periwinkle. When coupled with different textures and hues, honey can shape-shift from peony to champagne to topaz.

Making a case for this trend, Yalitza Aparicio positively radiated in a monochrome honey dress designed by The Vampire’s Wife. And Gemma Chan complimented her sequined gold Miu Miu skirt with a petal pink top. The grounding honey and dazzling brilliance of the texture highlighted the look’s simple shape.    

This trend’s magic rests in its sheer versatility. For effortless experimentation beyond the dance floor, try honey accents through statement jewelry to jump-start an otherwise minimal jeans and a tee shirt. And on the dance floor, well, the possibilities are boundless. For a hyperbolic start, look for a canary bow on a dandelion dress. For the more understated dancer, look for metallic bursts of gold on a pared down little black dress.