Writer's Note
Dreams in Rococo
Every spring season has a perfect floral. This year’s flowery trim is a vinyl microprint, the kind that adds a decadence to the chandeliers of the salons at the Hôtel de Soubise in Paris, or a whimsical flair to Fragonard’s iconic portrait of a fancy young girl at play, called The Swing. The Rococo era, known for its unabashed femininity, soft hues, and intricate designs, is also the period that invented champagne. It is this fizzy joie de vivre that makes a celebration out of life that draws designers—and all of us, the wearers—to this revivalist trend.
For inspiration, check out Chanel’s couture collection, which, to no one’s surprise, brought a finesse and cheekiness to modern day Rococo. It was, however, a little bit tickling to see the storied label, home to the infamous boxy tweed suit, take such a bohemian stance this season. Effervescent prairie gowns in shades of mint julep and rosé floated down the runways. Like The Swing, come alive.
On the subject of artwork brought to life, Dakota Johnson sported an intoxicating tangerine Gucci gown with effortless, asymmetrical poppies drooping along the neckline. And Mindy Kaling turned heads in a wistful Rodarte dress filled with rouge pastels, texturally reminiscent of Queen Anne’s Lace.
For your ballroom dress rentals, embrace the Rococo with waltz dresses in crystalline shades of peridot and quartz, the ornate floral decals being the crowning detail, the sartorial cherry on top.
On the Runway
Madame Maximalist
“Couture is about volumes,” Giambattista Valli says. The designer is, of course, known for his sweeping collections that couple the extravagant with the elegant. But this season, the designs felt, somehow, even larger than usual, larger than life, larger than couture itself. Perhaps it’s because he treats his voluminous gowns like sculptures, carefully layering fabrics and textures
to create memorable pieces. Take, for example, the bubble gum pink tiered gown that looked as frothy as an Italian wedding cake and as concrete as the Tower of Pisa. Or another favorite, the watermelon slip entirely composed of feathers that seemed as alive and wild as a flamingo—and just as much a force of nature.
Off the runway, actress Cynthia Erivo took this trend for a spin in a metallic Loewe gown that ballooned at the hem, creating sophisticated crescent motifs. Equally glitzy, Anne Hathaway radiated glam in a dizzyingly sparkly Atelier Versace gown as svelte as sweet vermouth.
This trend is so much fun to play with, and perfect for all of your ballroom dress rentals. Think waltz dresses in brilliantly saturated hues, or Latin dance dresses bedazzled in sequin streams
On the Runway
Spring Awakening
Armani Privé’s couture collection kicked off with trimmed suits in neutral shades of meteor and moon rock. Silver details offered a glimmer of hope, a promise of the sparkle to come. Quickly, the milky way suits gave way to velvety navy slips. Bows and ruffles sprung up sporadically, like early-bird daffodils in February. And then, suddenly, the bloom: a burst of color and lightness, a total contrast from the show’s start. We’re talking honeysuckle pinks, robin’s egg blue, and chiffon as delicate as April showers.
Armani’s interpretation of this trend relied on dramatics, but the best performers know that even drama requires a subtle hand. Elaine Welteroth’s classic Fendi trench boasted a springtime touch thanks to its vivid sunny hue, reminiscent of freshly clipped chrysanthemums. Billowy sleeves added to the visual metaphor. Similarly, Ella Hunt donned a baby doll Miu Miu dress in a sweet peony pink.
This trend translates effortlessly onto the dance floor. Just imagine your favorite Latin dance dresses in flowery shades of orchid, lily, or tulip.