F|W 19|20 trends on the runway!

F|W 19|20 Trend Report

By Emma Francois

Writer's Note

Normally, Hairpins to Hemlines is opened with the fruitiest trend, perhaps a dazzling color or fine print, and end with the boldest, starkest trend. For most seasons, this pattern – this fashion journey – fits. But this winter, we wanted to reverse the agenda. To spice things up just as the designers did this season. We start with “Earthly Evocations,” a trend that nods to the wonders that bedazzle our everyday: a lone junco hopping in the backyard, signaling winter’s approach; a beautifully-patterned snowflake on the dashboard; melted chocolate in a glass of fresh milk. We cannot afford to forget the beauty of nature, its fragility and its interdependence with humans, in our lives, in our sustenance, and in our art. Next are moody midnight hues, melancholy and magnificent. The juxtaposition of bright and dark. Then, a funky feather trend to follow. Who doesn’t love a good feather detail in their wardrobe?


Models Wearing Iris Van Herpen

Iris van Herpen’s voluptuous couture gowns this season featured seismic proportions, radial silhouettes, and logarithmic fabric treatments. The result? Sculptural looks in petal-like colors whose rhythmic feel harkened to oceanic waves or pearly seashells. Through evocations of earthly phenomenon, the design house alluded to some of our world’s most elusive beauties, thrilling wonders of atmospheric and terrestrial elements. And so can you.

Kendall Jenner evoked earthly wonders in a Richard Quinn and Vex Clothing dress with a sweetheart neckline and punchy petals. A lacquered black long sleeve shirt detail suggested the synthetic or the manufactured, offsetting the look’s otherwise predominant natural flora.

Michelle Williams, who frequently represents Louis Vuitton on the red carpet, wore a turquoise bejeweled dress with suggestions of vines and curly leaves, a softened earthly print that allowed her face and neckline to shine.

And in an even more subtle evocation, Amy Adams wore a sheer Fendi gown in a mossy birch. Textured accents, reminiscent of wheat blooms, highlighted the natural, understated dress.

For starters, incorporate this trend into your quotidian style sense through accessories, perhaps a bird of paradise brooch or a fresh flower slipped with a few strands of hair into a teardrop barrette. Or, look for glittering leaves or celestial accents on a dreamy ball gown in petal pink or sunshine yellow.

On the Runway


Few fashion houses are as synonymous with timeless elegance as Dior. Therefore, it came as no surprise when richly dark hues slid down the couture runways this winter. Favorites included a black crepe cape, perfect for the modern muse, and a layered onyx gown with tulle hanging like a veil over a deep-v neckline and embroidered glittering accents. While most looks flirted with the magic of monochrome, the first look stunned in its uniqueness: an ivory twist on a Grecian tunic with the words “are clothes modern?” typed along the front bodice, a biting contrast to the dark, sumptuous gowns that followed.

Margaret Qualley proved this trend’s staying power in a timeless Chanel gown with an asymmetrical neckline and light pleating detail along the hem. A starkly white belt offered brief relief from the dramatic black dress; the sartorial epitome of a breath of fresh air.

Maisie Williams radiated old-school glamour in a JW Anderson dress with a bow of black fabric cascading to the floor from her left waist. Matching midnight Manolo Blahnik heels amplified the undeniable elegance of her look.

Emilia Clarke in Valentino exemplified this trend in a beautifully-tailored navy gown with a sweeping, low-cut neckline that accentuated her décolletage. Minimalist, yet unforgettable.

This trend is perhaps the most democratic of the season. Everyone stuns in a midnight hue – whether that means sapphire or obsidian – and this trend is perfectly translated from the runway to the sidewalk to the dance floor. Try an ebony gown with something sparkly to catch the light mid-twirl, or splurge on an inky trench coat to pair with your favorite jeans and white tee.

On the Runway


The wearer of feathers has a few things (aside from great taste, of course). She has confidence, joie de vivre, spirit, style, and a sense of humor. She is both hilarious and graceful, feminine and quirky. And, perhaps she has an affinity for Givenchy. The iconic design house took this ethos to heart for its winter couture collection; nearly every look had something feathery about it. One textured mint gown, for example, featured tiered ruffles of fabric with black feathers poking out all over the look, as if a large gust of wind had blown a stockpile of ostrich feathers around the model. The additions gave the number a sense of whimsy and movement. Similarly, a snowy white dress seemingly constructed entirely from feathers served as a fitting finale to Givenchy’s show.

Taking this trend beyond the runway, famed singer Lizzo donned a fiery red (affectionately termed the “siren”) Moschino dress at a recent awards show. A matching feather boa playfully strewn around her neck complimented the bold color, sequins, and typographic print.

And at the Emmys, Gwyneth Paltrow wore a Valentino number with a statement sleeve: stemming from her elbows, feathers of black fabric streamed and billowed, creating an innovative, dynamic silhouette.

Indulge in feathery accents on your gown of choice. Or, take a note from Lizzo’s playbook and add a feather boa to any outfit, whether on or off the dance floor.

On the Runway